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Soba, wagyu, and the Sea of Japan's catch

Food Culture

A lord's relocation brought soba noodles; Tajima cattle became the root stock of Kobe and Matsusaka beef; and Kinosaki's coastal waters supply the rest. Toyooka's table reflects its history and geography in equal measure.

Noodles a lord brought with him

The history of Izushi's plate soba

Izushi soba traces back to 1706, when Sengoku Masaakira, relocated from Ueda domain in Shinano, reportedly brought soba artisans with him, planting the tradition in Izushi. The now-iconic style — small plates of bite-sized noodles, typically five per serving — is actually a fairly recent development, believed to have taken shape in the 1950s–60s, after an earlier practice of serving soba on portable plates from street stalls.

A cooperative for Izushi plate soba was founded in 2008 to promote locally grown buckwheat, and the name "Izushi Sara-Soba" was trademarked in 2018.

The root of Japan's wagyu

Tajima beef, and its lineage to Kobe and Matsusaka beef

It's often said that the roots of Japan's branded wagyu lie in Tajima. The region's rugged, isolated mountains limited cattle exchange with other areas for centuries, preserving a distinct bloodline — Tajima cattle — in remarkable purity.

Today, much of the cattle behind famous brands like Kobe beef and Matsusaka beef traces back to Tajima bloodlines as foundation stock. Cattle raised around Toyooka are also sold directly as Tajima beef, prized for its fine marbling and refined flavor.

A spa town's table

Kinosaki Onsen and the bounty of the Sea of Japan

Kinosaki Onsen sits near the mouth of the Maruyama River as it meets the Sea of Japan, close to fishing ports like Toiyama, and enjoys correspondingly fresh seafood. Winter's snow crab (matsuba-gani) is Tajima's signature delicacy, drawing visitors to the ryokan of Kinosaki and Toyooka specifically for crab cuisine.

Kaiseki dinners at Kinosaki's inns — designed so guests won't catch a chill between visits to the outdoor baths — showcase local mountain and sea ingredients alongside Tajima beef sukiyaki, fresh seafood, Izushi soba and Tajima's local sake.

Food as a record of place
If Izushi soba records a lord's relocation, Tajima beef records isolated mountain geography, and Kinosaki's seafood records a coastline on the Sea of Japan, then Toyooka's food culture as a whole mirrors the region's history and geography.

Timeline

Food culture at a glance

1706

Soba arrives with Lord Sengoku

Traditionally the origin of Izushi soba.

Late Edo

"Plate-serving" begins at street stalls

Soba is served on portable plates for convenience.

1950s–60s

Today's plate-soba style takes shape

Roughly five small plates per serving becomes the norm.

2008

Izushi Plate Soba Cooperative founded

Promotes local buckwheat sourcing.

2018

"Izushi Sara-Soba" trademarked

Regional branding is formalized.

In pictures

Toyooka's table

Izushi plate soba served on five small dishes with a sake flask
Izushi plate sobaA soba shop in Izushi
A herd of Tajima cattle grazing on a highland pasture
Grazing Tajima cattleHighland pasture, Toyooka
Snow crab (matsuba-gani) served at a Kinosaki ryokan
Snow crab courseKinosaki Onsen